I suspect I won’t be the most popular girl on the blog writing about food right after Easter. Apparently too many of us have been overeating, drinking in abundance, spending too much time with in-laws, and wishing now to forget about the whole ordeal… Not me, though. This Easter wasn’t your regular Sunday with dyed eggs and chocolate bunnies (what do chocolate bunnies have to do with the resurrection of Jesus anyway?), it was the Easter of oysters and champagne, decadent chocolate cakes and coquilles St. Jacques.
Saturday morning was…well, slept through, and the day started at lunch in Bayeux (at least that’s when my recollection of memories picks up again…). Bayeux is a little town seven kilometers from the coast of La Manche (English Channel), best known for the Bayeux tapestry, made to commemorate events in the Norman Conquest of England in 1066. Lots of English tourists, indeed, even the menus outside of brasseries had little English incriptions: “Mules Frites a la normande. With onions and cream". That’s what I was having for lunch. And a little portion of sunshine, it is almost as precious as coquilles St. Jacques here. Later there was a “light” dinner of oysters and crabs from the local market (It really would be light if the baguette and butter didn’t cut in).
The Easter morning was cold and windy, so the activities of the day were narrowed down to a walk to the local market (hmmm… 150m both ways, I suppose) to stock up on oysters. Meanwhile le mouton a la moroccaine was shimmering on the stove for lunch. And that should have been it for a day, but of course it wasn’t. There was also dinner with oysters for starters (what else?...) and the coquilles St. Jacques with Pommeau and cream sauce. “It’s never as good as the first time” – wasn’t this song of Sade written about the first experience of tasting a coquille St. Jacques? I am almost sure it was. It’s delicacy and texture are indescribable, at least not with my literary abilities anyway.
The highlight of Monday was a trip to the Mont St. Michel. As proper tourists we had an overpriced crêpe at an overpriced café, washing it down with a glass of dark beer for some reason…an unusual and not unpleasant combination. I felt almost rebellious ordering it.
Looking back I can’t believe that all this hedonism took place practically in the middle of a construction field. Between the magnificent meals doors were replaced and walls there knocked down and bathrooms repaired. Only the three-meter-long antique oak table in the center of the room was undisturbed (unless by changing sets of plates and glasses) and served us as a sanctuary of stability and reassurance.
I am afraid to bore you to death with my culinary delirium, try to get back to it on an empty stomach, it’s quite fun. Anyway, that was my Easter. How was yours?
That is too much fun and good food for one person.
ReplyDeleteThe French know very much how to eat. It looks like you know how to eat the very best that they have.
Oysters! Coquilles St. Jacques with Pommeau and cream sauce?? I am leaving for Paris at once.
One thing weirder than chocolate bunnies for Easter I saw?? How about a white chocolate crucified Jesus? Yes, I saw one.
Where do these people come from? How do you start to eat such a thing?
But in New York I can also have good Thai food (maybe with a chocolate Buddah?)
A white chocolate Jesus is indeed a new level of ridicule (where would you start: the bleeding feet or the head?...), as I say, there is always a space for the further downfall, people seem to abuse this advantage generously... And you won’t get the top sea stuff in Paris...you got to go to Normandie :). Have good time in New York. Oh, the chocolate Buddha...is a perfect parody on abstinence, you should patent it.
ReplyDeleteNow that I am a "sophisticate," I must differ.
ReplyDeleteI place in contention one of the finest seafood restaurants in Paris, "Les Pyramides," 1 et 3 rue des Pyramides (sous les Arcades) 75001.
They drive the seafood in fresh from Normandy VERY quickly, AND, the fried foie gras makes up for everything else.